Liner not only enlarges and draws attention to your eyes, but it also adds drama, feline sex appeal or punk-rock chic, depending on your mood. On the flip side, liner is one of the trickier cosmetics to apply, which explains why women wear it less frequently than beauty no-brainers such as lipstick and mascara.
Which comes first, eyeliner or eyeshadow? It depends on the look you want. For example, for a smoky eye, dark shadow goes on top of liner to “set” it, but for a cat eye you’d draw a dark line over pale shadow. Learn the proper application techniques and get comfortable (and steady) with sharp pencils and stiff-edged brushes, and you’ll realize liner can be as versatile and expressive as the most accomplished actress.
Eyeliner comes in three forms, each with a unique look and level of difficulty. One rule applies across the board: liner should be pliable, so that it never tugs at the thin skin around the eyes.
Pencil: pencils go on relatively quickly and blend easily, so they’re an easy everyday option. Automatic, mechanical and felt-tip pencils are always sharp, but be careful: precise lines can look severe on eyes of a certain age. Kohl pencils tend to be fatter and softer and have an almost powdery consistency, which makes them ideal for creating soft daytime looks and smudgy, smoky evening eyes.
Powder: this is the most natural-looking kind of eyeliner, and it’s easy to apply with almost any type of fine, short-bristle brush. Some cake (pressed powder) liners require a moist brush, but most can be used wet or dry. Many makeup artists use powder eye shadow as eyeliner: as long as it’s densely pigmented, it works just as well. (To keep dry shadow liner from fading, smooth a bit of oil-free foundation across your lids first).
Gel: of the three formulations, liquid liner is the most precise and long-lasting and has the sharpest, most defined look. On the flip side, it can also look dated. And as anyone who has applied it with a shaky hand knows, it’s the hardest type of liner to use. Liquid liners that come with small, pointed brushes create a very fine line, so they’re ideal for beginners. For a less intense effect, gently dot liner just between lashes with the tip of a brush. Felt or sponge tips are wider and therefore provide less control. Liquid liner shouldn’t budge once it dries – but use a waterproof formula in humid conditions, just in case.